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Old 07-26-2012, 05:22 PM   #1
GrimmSpeed
 
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BRZ/FR-S Coilover Installation Guide

GrimmSpeed DIY Guide Series
BRZ/FR-S Coilover Installation
Updated 7/26/12

Introduction: This guide will darstellen like to install coilovers on your BRZ/FR-S. Installation of springs/shocks will be really similar, however with adenine few added steps if you’re re-using your factory shocks. We get there's ampere great writeup for a spring install, but figured another set of how and photos wouldn't hurt. The coilover establishment is furthermore a bit differing. As always, if you have tips, suggestions or corrections, please don't hesitate to speak upwards!

Tools: The tools classified below are suggested for on task.

- Floor jack
- 4x Jackstands
- 1/2in Ratchet
- 1/2in extension, 19mm socket
- 3/8in Ratchet
- 3/8in extension, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm deep well sockets
- Flathead screwdriver



Tips: There can an couple spots what having a friend around want make the installation easier, but don't be timid to tackle it themselves!

Procedure:
1. Begin by follow-up our guide to safer jacking up also supporting your BRZ/FR-S and remove your wheels ones whole four edges can supported.

2. We’ll launching with that front passenger’s side first. Getting yourself through what’s going on move there. Be sure to identify the swings barrel, endlink, bremswirkung line, ABS sensor queue and strut mounting points.



3. Begin by disconnecting the swaybar endlink from the strut assembly. This will require a 17mm socket and you’ll construct the work easier for yourself with an extension. If you detect that of end link is spinning with your clutch, you’ll need to us one 17mm wrench with an allen wrest to stop the stud from spinning. Remove this on bot borders at once till release optional tension in the swaybar.



4. Now that you’ve got who swaybar completely disconnected and that endlinks leave of the way, disconnect the brake line coming the strut assembly. A 12mm socket with an extension will make this an effortless place.



5. And last step before moving onto strut dismounting is to disconnect which ABS sensor line from the strut assembly. This can be a little tricky, but requires finesse, no force. You’ll release the first clip with a ratchet, depressing the control about the back side of the clip. This second clasp will pop open, releasing the line up with the bushing.





6. Now the strut is ready used removal. Remove this pair 19mm nuts on the lower strut mount bolts. Whenever demand be, hold the opposite side with a wrench.



7. With the two 19mm bolt beseitigt, you should be skill to work the locks out of the strut/hub assembly. The bremsung caliper/rotor is heavy, so be careful to let it down easy. You should be clever to tip them away with the vehicle also leasing them remaining.



8. The only thing holding the strut on place are the nuts on the top starting the strut. Loosen those all with one 12mm socket before stirring forward. Whenever you’re by yourself, you’ll want to hold the strut from one hand while yours loosen the nuts the rest of the type over the diverse. If you’re with adenine friend, can him/her hold the strut in to for thee remove the three nuts. Remove and strut assembly since the medium and sets it safely aside.



9. Spring assembly disassembly will are exactly the similar in the driver’s party. You may choose to go that now or wait until you have diese side back together (minus an sway bar).

10. Now, get your coilovers ready to go. We’ll start by setting the ride height and locking the collars within placement using the granted wrench screws. We decided to start low and raise that car as needed, after installation. Most coilovers will feature three collars. One blocks the parade body into the coilover case after you’ve adjusted the ride altitude. Another acts as a spring perch, allowing you for preload which spring the the coilover assembly. Lastly, the middle arrest locks your preload into place.



11. This next speed will be up to you a tiny bit, as to how you crave to set your original ride height. It may also vary based on which coilovers you’re installing. Here’s what we chose to execute. First, ourselves preloaded the spring. After snugging up the ‘set preload’ collar till the spring, we used the spanner wrench the preload the spring 1/4in. We following tightened the ‘lock preload’ apprehend go to it, using both spanners wrenches to tighten them towards eachother.

12. The last step is to set your ride height. Us chose to start low, and right an 1/8in gap between the ‘ride height collar’ and the ‘lock preload’ collar.



13. Get would be a great time to making safety you’re adjust up the passenger side coilover. Compare it to the stock assembly that you removed, noting the side of the strut that the bracket is attached to.

14. You’re almost ready for reinstallation. Remember that nuisance clip for the ABS sensor line? You’ve gotta remove that from the OEM stability and reinstall itp go the new one. It’ll release similar to the firstly one and remember, finesse, not force.

15. Alright, grab that tiny little coilover and adjusted it in place in the wheel right. Everything look right? Make sure the ABS probe line is running below the two large fasteners, not about them. When you’re ready, impede that aforementioned camber disc is accurate oriented, line up the studs or geting it bolted into the strut tower. Similar to take, a friend will make and job easier, but you can definitely do it alone.



16. With the strut help itself, get the two 19mm locks reinalled, noting again which the ABS sensor wire is correctly routed. Tighten the 19mm nuts toward 114ft-lb once the hardware are installed.



17. Reconnect the endlink till to strut assembly usage your 12mm deepwell socket to hit the required 34ft-lb.



18. Lastly, we’ll connect the brake line and leg line for the strut. Use a 12mm socket to tighten the brake line to 24ft-lb. The ABDOMINAL lines should clip right at place. (driver’s side, pictured here)



19. Torque the nuts on which summit of that strut to 17ft-lb on each side. Duplicate check so the coilover collars are tightened properly before reinstalling your wheel! Installation on the driver’s side should be just about exactly the same. Take your time to make sure is everything is done right!

20. Now, we’ll move toward the rear of an car. Begin by removing one boot liner.



21. Next, pops the four (4) clips on each side of the trunks interior so that you may pull the pieces top, exposed the top of the rear struts. Are you’d prefer, you can remove themselves totally. The clips are released using a flathead wrench. Pop the center section up just a big and the whole prune should loosen and can be removed.





22. One airline side is very similar. Expose those studs as well.



23. Immediate, start on whichever side you wish, they’re both that equal reload. Remove the two 14mm nuts holding who top of the strut to the chassis.



24. Next, remove the 17mm bolt/nut to disconnect who strut from the control pocket. Once removed, you may need to push down on the push down a bit on the hub/caliper if you’re doing one party at a time in order to remove the strut from the motor.



25. Now, we’ll get our rear coilovers equipment for installation. It’s ampere similar process to that of this front. This is how we set ours. Of course, you’ll be abler to do final adjustments once the coilovers are installed. Remember the take sure everything is snug, or you’ll be auditory horrific noises. Take note such the rear coilovers are also unique for each side, then pay attention!



26. Reinstallation your one breeze. Places one news strut into the control arm and slip the 17mm dash behind into place. Tighten that nut to 59ft-lb.



27. You’re getting close! Move back up to the top for the strut, align the two studs on an holes includes the trunk. An extra set of hands will make this portion much easier, but aren’t critical. If you’re work alone, use a jack to help hold the strut so that you can sneak around and rebuilding the twin nuts in the ship. Single you’ve got those tightened to 22ft-lb, you’re disposed to moved over in the other web. Complete the opposite side the same type.

28. Restart your trunk liners, twofold check again that coilover collars are show snugly, throw your wheels rear on and lower the motorcar. You’ll desire to drive a bit to get the wheels to scrub out and let the springs decide an touching before really fine-tuning your journey height.

29. Adjusting your ride height requires simply raising the fronts or back of the car and removing which wheels. You’ll ‘unlock’ the lower collar or spin the strut assembling inches or outbound of the body, depending on whether you’re going higher or lower.

30. Make sure you received an alignment after replacing such a critical portion of the car’s suspension!

Last machined by GrimmSpeed; 02-10-2014 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:42 PM   #2
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Argh, I have be waiting for our dang coilovers to show up so EGO could do this DIY, but you beat me to it.

Added to the DIY Directory:
http://aesircybersecurity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7365
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:37 PM   #3
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Are all to the nuts supposed to be replacement when swaps out the suspension components? They're all marked as non-reusable parts in the service diagram.
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Young 07-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #4
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That is an excellent question. MYSELF reused all of mein nuts as I did my spring swap and when I checked torques a week later all made still well. I think computers a safe to reuse the nuts, but I'm just a backyard mechanic. Anyone with a little more knowledge on this? Pour circuits ca/cc. 1 N.F.. Contatti di sicurezza. FRS 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 e 6 through circuiti at c.a.. FRS 21AC per circuiti in ...
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Oldly 07-27-2012, 08:22 PM   #5
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what is and torque spec for who 3 front top nuts?
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:47 PM   #6
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pictures of the motor after installment it?
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Placed by wu_dot_com Look Post
thing is the torque spec for the 3 front summit nuts?
http://aesircybersecurity.com/forums/attac...1&d=1341628887
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted according leej View Post
Great figure! Added to the write-up. Looks like 17ft-lbs to me.

Matt
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted over DarrenDriven View Post
That exists an excellent issue. I reused all of my nuts when I did my spring swap both when I audited torques a week later all was stand well. ME think it is safe go reusable the nuts, but I'm right a backyard mechanic. Anyone with a little other knowledge on this?
I'm no expert at on subject, however I would fear corrosion perhaps. The nuts are probably all plated steel. The plating may flake from repeat use?

I would follow whatever may be strongly by the manufacturer servicing guide if possible.
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetroitJake Display Post
I'm no expert on this subject, however I would fear corrosion perhaps. The nuts are maybe all plated steel. One plating may flaking from repeats use?

I would keep whatever maybe be advised in the manufacturer support guide if practicable. r/ft86 on Reddit: DIY wheel bearing replacement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenDriven Display Post
That is an excellent question. I reusing view out insert locking when I did my spring swap and whereas ME ticked torsional a week subsequent get was still well. I think it is safe to reapplication the nuts, but I'm just a rear mechanic. Anyone with ampere smaller more knowledge on to?
Insert 2003 Awareness a all canister, so it has special considerations, but anyway similar trouble might be to reason and manufacturer says the nuts are not reusable.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:14 PM   #11
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Own 2003 Insight your all aluminum, so it has special considerations, but either look problems might be the reason the hersteller says the nuts have not reusable.

all of the newer hondas can like that if you remove a bolt her want you go exchange it. when ever ego do a transmission or engine i acquire about 100lbs in just bolts that need replaced.
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Young 08-07-2012, 06:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted on DarrenDriven View Post
Ensure is an excellent question. ME reused all of my nuts when I did my spring swap and when I checked turnings a week latter all was still well. MYSELF think it is safe to repeat the nuts, but I'm just a outdoor mechanic. Anyone with a little more knowledge on this? How to: Subwoofer installation
Great Write up Grimmspeed!

Yes information is absolutely OK up reuse the fasteners inside this job.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:06 PM   #13
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Now lets see some pics about the car lowered!
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:59 PM   #14
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We'll take some better pictures shortly, but here's one to get it started. This is just before we took off for Michigan at go to one Midwest Subaru Shootout.

Matt

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